I'm free May 11-12, I hope the weather is good that weekend, lets go do something. North Face on Hood, North Face of Chair or maybe North Face of Graybeard?
[ 05-03-2002, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: john ]
Hi Mike
Some friends and I are planning to attempt Liberty during the first week of July. Due to the low snow year do you have any predictions as to what we will find?
John
I have climbed the route a couple of times and for the most part it isn't that bad. I would recommend that you spend some serious time from camp looking for a way through the glacier as this part of the climb can eat up a great deal of time. Depending upone how much snow there is avlanches become an issue. If there is alot of snow I suggest getting on the ridge much lower than normal. The ridge for the most part is 45 degrees but can be ice up towards the top at the base of the headwall. Depending upon which line you take up the headwall expect 70 to 90 degree climbing and bring 1/2 dozen ice screws. This is a long route so try to leave early in the morning.
Sorry for asking about Alaska info hear but I have no other place to turn at this point. Looking for information on the Chugach Range of Alaska which is near Anchorage. Has anyone heard of it or know of a source of info? Thanks!
Yes it is just 40-45 degrees. Once you get past the upper Reid glacier and the crevasses at the base it is usually just a snow slog to the top. I have never seen anyone ski but it could be done as long as the crevasses are filled in.
I was up on the South Side last Saturday and have never seen the standard route so dangerous. I have climbed on the Leuhold side a number of times and that side has lots of avalanche slopes protected by rock towers which are now covered in ice. With the warm temps all the ice is coming down. I would recommend that everyone stay off the mountain until there is another good dump of snow and it can help stabalize the ice