JonathanHemlock

Isn't the North Face of West Tiger Mountain the site where tragedy struck the 1972 Korean expedition right there at the notorious Kern's step? I believe they were the first to attempt to free the final 5.8+ bombay chimney in the dead of winter - alpine style, no bolts. Sadly, they were overtaken by a fierce winter storm - the likes of which have only been witnessed in remote recesses of the coastal Chugach range in Alaska. If it weren't for the heroics (theatrics?) of rescuer (who else?) Big Lou Whittaker, everyone may have perished - would-be rescuers and all. Big Lou (sporting an REI down parka and RMI guide sweater) single-handedly lifted the rescue chopper into the rarefied air and set it on its way to safety - a feat of strength and courage unparalleled in mountaineering history. In his unique taciturn style, his solitary comment on the rescue mission was "Today, the mountain's really showing off!"

Well the Eiger birds are flocking in: jet-setters, assorted zombies. If they're lucky they'll get to see a man get killed. Sound grim? So is the Eiger. Pope: I'm going back into the hotel. When I come back out, I don't want to see you around anymore. Understand? Good boy... So I hear a foehn is blowing in. What's a foehn? Warm, then rain, then a freeze. All in a flash. That whole mother of a rock is going to be covered in ice. To find a crack to drive a piton in... the cracks are all iced up. But you can sure as hell drop through to your neck at any time! They won't be able to go up, they won't be able to go down, they're just going to be stuck.

In winter and spring one can ski from the summit to the car - yes, it's worth it. Haven't been there this year, though.

Mr. Goodtime: No. You can tell Dragon I'm back in retirement. Pope: I feel it's only fair to warn you in advance that I'm going to have to waste you a little. But you'll be all right. Of course, you may have some trouble playing the clarinet for awhile...

Some winter route ideas: Lane Peak in the Tatoosh has three couloirs to choose from. The middle one is mostly 45 degrees with a short steep step. The North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck is a nice 45 degree, 1500' couloir with some mixed climbing going from the couloir end to the summit (up to 5.4, scarce pro). A bit of a grind this time of year. El Dorado can sometimes be accessed in a low-snow year. We had it all to ourselves back in 1993. Pyramid Peak (near Diablo Dam) is a good one. The Liberty Bell group can be accessed fairly easily from the east side. Lots of good couloirs to be had. Good ice forms along the base of Mt. Index some years. Whitehorse has a nice bivy upon exiting the timber that's safe from avalanches. The route is steepest just prior to summiting. Enjoy - and be avalanche savvy...