On Sat., 7/7/01, my wife Kirsten, Erik Snyder, and I climbed the N. Face of Maude in a day. We left the car at 7:15 a.m., and returned to the car at 7:45 p.m. No speed record to be sure, but still a great day with beautiful weather.
We used the Seven Fingered Jack/Mt. Maude col approach, which worked fine. Much faster and shorter than the traverse around Marmot Pyramid that friends and I used last summer to climb the Entiat Icefall.
Kirsten, Erik, and I stayed as high as possible from the col, downclimbing a bit, then traversing at about 7,900 ft. toward the N. Face. We never dropped below 7,650 ft., and eventually intersected with the face. The face face itself was not difficult climbing.
We never needed crampons as the snow was soft, but we did rope up with a 30-meter rope, and Kirsten and I used short third tools in addition to our regular ice axes. Staying high on the traverse also meant exposure to rock fall, so helmets were appreciated.
All in all, a very good route, and worth doing as a one- or two-day trip.
John Sharp
Bellevue