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Mt Hood Wy'East Route Beta Please

DFMedia · 2024-12-10T19:20:56+0000

Hi Everyone! I'm new to the board, and this is my first post, so please move it if I have put it in the incorrect place. I did a search, and couldn't find the information I was looking for, so figured it was best to ask. I've been ski touring since 2017, and have a fair amount of experience in the Canadian Rockies, but very little experience in the Cascades. I live in Canada now, but did live around Government Camp for a time. I did try to summit Mt. Hood via the south side route in 2017, but our group had to turn back just below hogsback due to inclement weather. While I am far from an expert, I have a lot more experience now, as well better gear, and figured that I would like to try again sometime this spring. The main goal would be to summit, and then ideally ski down the Newton Clark headwall. I remember the south side route being extremely busy, and I really don't like having people climbing above me. As a result, I think the Wy'East route is probably the best route to take (although open to suggestions if there is a better one that meets the objectives). I have been gathering beta on the Wy'East route, and it seems a lot safer to leave from Meadows as opposed to Timberline. While it does add some additional elevation, it seems as though it eliminates travel over the White River Glacier and would therefore be a safer route. Is my understanding correct? Is there any reason to leave from Timberline instead? Additionally, according to my research the crux of the Wy'East route is an exposed traverse. My current thought would be to leave skis below this aspect, so that we don't have to haul them up to the summit. Further, I've done some searching, and I can't find any information on protecting this portion of the climb (up or down). It seems like most people just free solo this aspect relying on their ice tools and crampons. It depends on the conditions I guess, but it seems to me that it would probably be a good idea to use some form of protection since there does not appear to be much time to self arrest before falling off the cliff if one does slip. So I guess my questions would be would one recommend lead climbing this section with a belayer below the cliffs? If so, what protection would you recommend using on the way up? Is there enough snow to use pickets? How about ice screws (or would they even hold in the rime?) Are cams an option (or is the rock even stable enough to support them?) Anything I'm missing? On the way down, would it be recommended to belay down? If so, would we need to build a snow anchor or bollard, or is there a bolt or some other protection that is already there? Sorry for the long winded post with a lot of questions, but I think its better to have as much information as possible in order to make informed decisions. Perhaps I'm overthinking it. Thanks to anyone in advance that provides any information!

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