[TR] Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall 4/17/2010

[The Cascade Kid]

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall

 

Date: 4/17/2010

 

Trip Report:

4/17-4/18

A.Ragus and I set out to climb Leuthold's couloir, but ended up climbing the Reid Glacier Headwall. For a more lengthy and subjective report see:

 

http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/'>http://sittingstone.wordpress.com/2010/04/18/reaping-fears-crop/

 

We skied to Illumination Saddle, where we stashed skis and slept the night in an open bivy under clear skies with light wind. In the morning we left camp at 4am, right in front of a nice group that had come up behind us. Reaching the base of Leuthold's couloir, and never having been up there before, I led us a little bit too far right.

 

The snow was perfect for kicking steps for the most part, and after several hundred feet of climbing, it became abundantly clear that we'd gone the way of the headwall. Things felt good so we chose to continue, lacking any beta (I like to think of it as a second first-ascent).

 

 

We wove our way through the rime towers on mostly good and stable snow, with pockets of sugary slog here and there. The angle climbed to at most 50 degrees at points, but likely averaged around 40 degrees. Around 10250' there was an optional section of clear blue WI2-, a great pleasure.

 

 

We joined forces around there with a group of two (one from PMR) to finish out the route, which proved tricky due to unconsolidated snow. A--- took care of it, stemming up a steep unconsolidated rime chimney, removing all thoughts of impossibility. We rendezvoued with those who had chosen the right way to leuthold's on the summit ridge, and an exposed traverse put us on top around 730am.

 

A friendly descent west of the old chute took us around the hordes and down to Irock, where we grabbed the skis, broke camp, and descended on good snow above T-line, and absolutely crap snow under the lifts. We reached the lot around 1030.

 

For more and larger images than are included below see:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gonemonk

http://sittingstone.wordpress.com

http://www.facebook.com/#!/album.php?aid=2049510&id=1156050005

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

A--- used one axe, I used two tools.

30M 8mm dry cord for the glacier

brought two pickets and one screw, used none.

 

Approach Notes:

Skis to I-rock. Roped for 2-man travel on the Reid, likely wasn't necessary. Didn't rope for the climb or descent.

Edited April 26, 2010 by The Cascade Kid

[Poser]

Nice pics, man. We were the 2 guys following your steps for a while. You guys made good time for sure.

[The Cascade Kid]

hey there poser. if you check out the link to my flickr, there's another one of you guys in there coming up behind us. It was good to meet you up there and figure out that last bit of the climb. -P