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[TR] Mount Shuksan- Sulphide Glacier 7/24/2004


scot'teryx

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Climb: Mount Shuksan-Sulphide Glacier

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2004

 

Trip Report:

Left Everett at 2:30am on Saturday morning, picked up Hunter and headed towards Shannon Creek Trailhead. Arrived at 530am and met Mike and Aaron. Left the trailhead at 6am and kept a moderate pace on the brushy and overgrown trail. It was 65 degrees when we left at 6am and only got hotter. Arrived at the glacier, roped up and headed upward and onward.

 

321039-med.jpg

 

The lower glacier was in good condition and the route seemed to be in good condition. Plenty of teams coming back down from the route while we headed up. One very nice team of 3 let me have some batteries for my camera since mine were dead (Thanks guys). Incredible views surrounded us.

 

3210271-med.jpg

 

Made it to the base of the pyramid at 12 noon and unroped and headed up.

 

Decided to go a different way up since there were 9 people at the top starting to rappel down the ascent route. Got off route and onto the ridge where some exposed 5th class moves seemed unjust due to no rock gear. Rappeled back down towards the normal route (Booty!) and waited for the other teams to come down.

 

Hunter peeked out into the main gulley to see what was going on and with in seconds Mike grabbed him and they dove out of the way as a SUV tire size boulder screamed down the route and barely missed them.

 

We set a turn around time at 2pm, and it was already 130pm and we knew the 9 people would not be down in time for us to head up and come back down as well.

 

We headed back down the glacier, I fell in a crevasse up to my thigh, but nothing else too exciting. Many crevasses opened up on our way down so we did not glissade at all.

 

3210311-med.jpg

 

Passed many people on our way out and watched a large fire burning in between Shuksan and Baker. Helicopters were dousing it with water from Baker Lake.

 

321061-med.jpg

 

Back at trailhead at 630pm.

 

We then made our way to a secret spot and doused ourselves in Baker Lake

 

Gear Notes:

Not used:

pickets

crampons

 

Used:

Ice Axe

(2) 30M 8.1 Rope

Slings

 

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is in good shape for a climbers trail. Does not make sense to need a NW Forest Pass for a trail that is not maintained?

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Great pictures! We camped at Lake Ann on Sat and climbed Fisher Chimneys on Sunday. That fire was looking scary on Sat night, but Sunday it seemed to have been put down. There was still quite a lot of smoke hanging around the valley though. When we hiked out, we saw that the trail was closed and ours were the only cars in the parking lot!

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