[TR] Kangaroo Temple - North Face 9/4/2010

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Kangaroo Temple - North Face

 

Date: 9/4/2010

 

Trip Report:

Gaucho Argentino and I ropegunned two newbies up Kangaroo Temple on Saturady. The route we chose is the very pleasant and easy N. Face route.

 

The trip was almost canceled due to marginal weather forecasts (snow/rain coming in for an extended period of time). But it worked out for us.

 

We met at 6:30 at the hairpin turnout and headed up soon afterwards to the pass. We lost the trail for a bit, but regained it after some bushwhacking.

 

We got to the pass in 1:20 minutes, including a pause to bandage a climber's eye brow. He whacked into the end of a fallen tree aimed at eye-level on the left edge of the climber's trail. In another hour or so we were at the notch roping up. It was cool on the approach and we were in the shade. The winds added some biting wind-chill however and we all had to don a mid layer, shell, and cap under our helmets.

 

View of objective on the way to the notch:

 

Gaucho led the first pitch with his partner, and I followed on their heels. Gaucho then proceeded to try to lead all the rest of the climb in the second pitch and had some heinous rope drag. I started up the 2nd pitch, and set up a belay to get both followers up. We then cleared the rope drag issue, and Gaucho's follower retied into that rope and went up. I led around the exposed corner, and then up the hand crack to a nice tree belay in pitch 3. We then untied and scrambled to the summit.

 

Gaucho leading the first pitch:

 

First two pitches were quite cold and in the shade. The last pitch, scramble, and summit all involved basking in glorious golden rays.

 

View back along Kangaroo Ridge from the summit:

The down climb to the rappel anchor had a little bit of spiciness, and the rappels themselves were quite exhilarating. There are two rappel anchors with bolts. The top appears to been reinforced with glue (recently?). The bottom pair of bolts looks very new.

 

First rappel:

 

Second rappel:

 

Hike out was pleasant and cool. We got back to the cars hours before dark.

 

View from notch coming down:

 

Gear Notes:

Small alpine rack up to C4 #2.