[TR] Mt. Stuart - West Ridge 8/14/2007

[Mark_L]

Trip: Mt. Stuart - West Ridge

 

Date: 8/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

Climbed the West Ridge of Stuart on Tuesday, August 14. About 13 hrs. car to car so chucK needn't worry about his "record". This is one of the premier moderate alpine single days in the Cascades so I try to do it every year.

 

Some suggestions:

 

1. I think one of the primary reasons for so many parties getting off route and benighted is all of the cairns leading every which way. I swear that there were cairns all of the way from Ingall's Lake to the summit of Long's pass. Trying to connect up the cairns tends to distract you from actually trying to pick out the best route which is really not very devious.

 

2. Take a few minutes at Ingall's pass to pick out the correct couloir to the base of Long John tower. (Its the second one from the left.)

 

3. As you ascend the route, kick over any cairns that you come across, they ruin everyone's opportunity to practice some real route finding, they are unsightly and I honestly believe that they are probably responsible for a number of people getting off route. I caught myself following them and found myself getting off route on occasion.

 

4. On the final summit tower pitches, stay on the ridge crest or the south side. The rock is much better, warmer and dryer than on the North side, especially if you do it in early season.

 

5. If you do, for whatever reason, become benighted, don't worry, there are bivy corrals about every rope length or so on the entire route. Although you may be shivering uncontrollably, you won't need to tether yourself in or fight for space with your partners.

 

6. The entire route, including the descent down the S. side is currently snow free, so you can get by without an ice axe, although it may come in handy for chopping the snow to pack in your water bottle.

 

If you would like to see pictures, there are some excellent ones in other trip reports made this summer.

 

Sadly, the Ingall's Creek valley is dying. Nearly all of the trees around the camp at the Long's pass way trail are dead. There are several inches of needles on the ground that have fallen off all of the trees. At this point, any lightning strike or errant campfire will send the valley up in flames, which is about the only cure for the budworm infestation in the area. The Teanaway valley is also infested, but is not as far advanced as Ingall's creek. This is going to result in some major changes to the area in years to come.

 

Gear Notes:

Could be done naked this time of year, but rock shoes make it more fun and allow you to get around obstacles more directly. Bring lots of water, there is no snow left.

 

Approach Notes:

For a little variety, go around Ingall's Lake on the right side. Follow the trail out of Stuart Pass to get to the base of the climb. The goats are very appreciative of any bodily discharges that you may leave, so avoid doing your business on any of the sparse plants.

[chucK]

I claimed no record. But I did do it faster than you. Ha ha.