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Trip: Kulshan - North Ridge

 

Date: 8/3/2016

 

Trip Report:

Conditions update on North Ridge. We found the glacier approach to be straightforward after lucking out with route selection, and great visibility. We gained the ridge on its east side, the west side slope would probably go but appeared a bit risky. There was a short section of spicy snow climbing to get on the ridge proper. While on the ice pitches, we witnessed a river of toaster-oven-to-Smart-Car sized blocks flow down the icefall to the east after a large serac collapse. What I think is the "secret passage" mentioned in some route descriptions is there this year. The descent down CD is in fine form.

 

Gear Notes:

8 screws (placed all)

2 pickets (useful)

stove (we went c2c, brewed up on the summit)

nutella and wag bags

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