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R. Ding

[TR] Unicorn Peak - Tatoosh - Standard (The Roof) 5/2/2015

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Trip: Unicorn Peak - Tatoosh - Standard (The Roof)

 

Date: 5/2/2015

 

Trip Report:

Ed, Mark, and I set off from Seattle at 7 am with hopes of blue skies, corn, and minimal bootpacking. (We met Nick and his basic climbing class students there.)

 

Routefinding very straightforward -- our only mistake was descending right at the saddle, we ended up having to climb up a loose, icy, no-fall gully. Instead, climb up the steep snow on the left side. The terrain rolls over and it's a short walk on a snowy ridge to the base of the summit block. Ed led the "The Roof", a surprisingly fun 2 move wonder. Lots of other options to the summit!

 

We hung around the summit block for a little while and didn't descend until about 3 pm. Snow was corn up top, mashed potatoes past the lower chute.

 

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Ed and the first chute.

 

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Nick's students coming up the first chute.

 

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Ridge before the summit block.

 

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Ed at the gnarled tree belay.

 

Gear Notes:

30 m rope and very light rack, 0.3"-1" plus a set of nuts were plenty.

 

Approach Notes:

We brought skis along and were able to start skinning just past the lakes (about ~1 mile in). Snow was icy in the shade, but ski boots were stiff enough.

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