[TR] Ingalls Peak - South Ridge 5/3/2015

[dlogs]

Trip: Ingalls Peak - South Ridge

 

Date: 5/3/2015

 

Trip Report:

The route is mostly snow free. Only the first pitch still had snow. The climber ahead of us used an ice axe (and I'm assuming crampons?) to ascend. It looked like he only put 2-3 pieces in but made it up ok. The snow looked soft.

We skipped this pitch as we found we could scramble up a low-angle slab on the other side of the rock formation climbers left of the first pitch. (Class 3-ish?)

 

Pitch 2 (5.2):

I belayed the second pitch from top of this slab; It was an easy traverse to the anchor of pitch 1 but better to stay protected.

 

Pitch 3 (5.6 variation):

Fun! Definitely take the 5.6 crack up the middle of the slab. Well worth it.

 

Pitch 4 (5.4):

Top of the pitch you can climb the left face or the corner. Left face is a little more challenging.

 

 

Rappelling:

For rappelling there are rap rings at each pitch. Be wary of the crack just below the anchor. We were with another duo and we joined ropes to rap and the knot got caught in the crack. It was a pain for one of us to ascend and free.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard gear to 2"

 

Approach Notes:

We hit snow around the split with Longs Pass. I was fine in trail running shoes, but let's be real my feet were wet for the whole approach and descent. I would wear boots next time in these conditions. The Ingalls Lake basin was still snow covered, as well as many of the adjacent peaks.

[putnamn]

 

Here is a photo of the route from the base. I was the group of two on route with you. Thanks for being great people to climb next to.

 

The first pitch is half covered in snow. It was pretty easy to climb up with nothing but an ice axe but as the snow thins I would expect it to get very sketchy and hard to protect. Definitely recommend swinging around climbers left of the gendarme. Should be melted out shortly!