[TR] Washington Pass - Adventure Ice Climbing 4/5/2015

[AndrewF]

Trip: Washington Pass - Adventure Ice Climbing

 

Date: 4/5/2015

 

Trip Report:

Priti, Ben, and I spent the weekend of April 4th-5th doing some adventure ice climbing in the WA Pass Area. (See the full trip report here: Cascade Climbers WA Pass Ice TR ). Other than the Cauthorn-Wilson, the Early Winter Couloir, and the road cuts we couldn’t find much beta so we decided to explore. (Does anyone have good sources of beta for WA outside of the standard books?).

 

Day 1 (4/4/15) we found a 50m flow of WI3 in a gulley above the hairpin mostly hidden from sight and a couple hundred feet up. If you are driving East, it is the first gulley past the last rock cutout (the tallest one). I would guess this climb will be in for a couple more weeks depending on temps. Watch out for avy danger as its right in the middle of a big avy chute.

 

Day 2 (4/5/15) we skinned up the Cutthroat Trailhead Road (NF-400) about 0.75 miles and spotted some ice in some cliff bands at about 5000’ on the south side of the valley (north facing). We ended up leaving our skis and exploring the cliff band. There were a number of potential ice lines that were deteriorating or not easily accessible without slabby mixed climbing or rappelling down to the base of the route but we were able to find a very fun two pitch line up the middle (Would have been three pitches but the bottom pitch was a bit too thin and we were able to bypass it by front-pointing up frozen mud on the right). Location of the cliff bands is shown in the topo below.

 

 

 

 

First view of the cliff band from NF-400

 

 

 

Belayed off a tree to the right of the base. The first pitch was about 40m and went at about WI3 with a few moves of mixed pass a delaminated section (protectable via trees off to the right). Belayed off a tree to the right on a short section of steep snow between the pitches. The second pitch was about 40m of very fun and very solid WI3+. Belayed off a big tree right at the top. A double rope 60m rap was able to get us just to the base of the climb (very close so tie your knots). We named the route “The Booty Screw” in case it hadn’t been climbed before. With the warmer temps not sure if this route will still be in this next weekend.

 

 

 

 

“The Booty Screw”: A view of the line we followed

 

 

 

We were curious if anyone has climbed or knows of someone who has climbed ice in these cliff bands before? Overall it was a fun area with potential for multiple lines in the WI2 – WI4 range, lots of trees for belaying or bailing, and a short approach if the highway is open (maybe 1 – 1.5 hours from the turnout).

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Standard ice gear, no pickets necessary as there are lots of trees.

 

Approach Notes:

Up the road and to the cliffs