NC visitor looking for Helens beta/partner

[Jesica]

Greetings, I'm visiting some friends in Portland the week of 4/6-4/10 and am looking at the possibility of a climb up Mount St. Helens while I'm in the area. I anticipate climbing later in the week, likely Thursday or Friday (the 9th or 10th). I hail from North Carolina and don't have any climbing contacts in the area, so I was wondering if anyone is willing to provide some beta about the condition of the Worm Flows route. If you are available and willing to climb with a random NC partner, even better. I am aware a permit is required, but I'm trying to determine the feasibility of the climb prior to purchasing. Cheers!

[Albuquerque Fred]

I went up Worm Flows on 3-29-15, partly cloudy day with some scattered snow having fallen in the prior several days. It was fairly warm in the valley (~ 4 am), cold and windy at summit (~9:30). Fresh snow was not too deep and mostly wind stabilized by then.

 

The route is straightforward through the trees on a big, obvious trail. Watch for a tricky spot about 3-4 miles in where the trees thin out (4000'?) where you cross a gully to get to the main ridge which will be on your left. My partners and I missed it in the dark, as did 2 or 3 parties in front of us, and as a result spent some extra time boulder hopping and picking our way back to the ridge once we figured it out. It is cairned and much easier to see in daylight. The rest of the way is along a ridge. If you go early take something for traction. Later in the morning it may get sloppy. Snow was more or less continuous above 5500'.

 

Good luck and have fun!

Fred