Forbidden Peak Late Season Beta

[pnwdevin]

Hi there,

 

I am planning on either attempting West Ridge or East Ridge direct of Forbidden peak the following weekend. Am I better off waiting until spring/ summer of next year, or would it be worth my time to give it a try next weekend? I haven't heard any reports from the ridge and was wondering if it got fresh snow from the last storm around here.

 

Thanks!

[BirdDog]

Did the east ridge direct 2 weeks ago. Snow gulley was hard in the AM, bring crampons. Route was in great shape, streams were easy to cross. My guess is any snow from the last storm is gone with current freezing levels. Feel free to clip my stuck #.3 on the 5.8 section. Watch out for small loose pyramid shaped finger crimp block next to the stuck cam. We both thought of trundling it, but didn't know if anyone was below on the east ledges.

 

Descent: Do five 80' to 100' raps from a slung block 15' south of summit. Go all the way to then end of your ropes for the 4th rap anchor; look around you'll see it. End of 5th rap; work across staying not high or low. After 45 minutes or so, aim for tower where your gear is.

 

Good Luck, beautiful climb!

[pnwdevin]

Thanks for the beta! I will give either West Ridge or East Direct. I try and put out a trip report.

Edited September 8, 2014 by pnwdevin