[TR] South Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.10- C0 8/9/2014

[HighLife]

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Direct East Buttress IV 5.10- C0

 

Date: 8/9/2014

 

Trip Report:

The bolt ladders were quite exciting. Manky gear, homemade gear! and a missing hanger on the second ladder. If I didn't know better I'd think it was C1+. If you have never been aid climbing these might put a smile on your face. There are enough good bolts to keep things reasonable.

 

The DEB was a fun climb with the third pitch being a 4-star gem. Just don't overshoot the start of the third pitch off to the right like I did.

 

 

 

The winds changed and brought the forest fire smoke to Washington Pass.

 

Alex leading p5 heading into the 1st bolt ladder. This pitch with the steep 5.9 crack is probably the crux pitch.

 

 

Silver Star Mtn is lost in smoke!

 

Hanging out above the hairpin.

 

Alex is as stoked as ever even in a cloud of smoke.

 

Gear Notes:

Double set cams finger-#4C4

One set offset nuts

I didn't find TCU's necessary

An alpine aider per person would be reasonable but not mandatory.

15 draws (4 quick, 9 single length alpine, 2 doubles)

[stamati]

Nice! Did you both aid that slab or free it?