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bellows

[TR] The Tooth - Northeast Slab 3/15/2014

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Trip: The Tooth - Northeast Slab

 

Date: 3/15/2014

 

Trip Report:

Jay and I found decent conditions on a nice climb up the Northeast Slab on Saturday. The route was varied and fun, including some steep snow, a bit of water ice, thin snice, and some mixed climbing along the ridge to the summit. Comparing it to previous trip reports I’d guess the route is in relatively good shape right now and should stay that way for a little while longer.

 

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Das Toof!

 

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Jay starting up the first pitch. This pitch had the steepest climbing on the route, and thankfully the best ice also. The full 60m pitch finished at a big belay cave with fixed gear in the rock on the right.

 

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Looking down the second pitch. This pitch started by traversing steep snow, then heading up a snow fluting which ended with 25’ or so of thin sketchy snice covering slabby rock to some scrubby trees, monkeying through the trees, then ending at a bomber tree belay further up (~50m). A couple pickets down low and two marginal screws protected the climbing, but I’m pretty sure marginal pro is typical for this pitch.

 

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The third pitch climbed a short bit of snow then some mixed climbing up and along the ridge (50m).

 

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Looking up the ridge, once we got there we climbed 4 pitches to the summit, including a few spots of awkward fifth class moves in crampons.

 

Rapping down the South Face ended up being its own adventure with stuck ropes (twice!) ending with us finishing the descent and hiking out with headlamps.

 

Overall a great day in the mountains!

 

 

Gear Notes:

We brought the kitchen sink: 4 pickets, 6 stubby screws, half set of nuts, several small cams, and a couple pins. We used everything but the pins. Also carried avy gear and a second skinny rope.

 

Approach Notes:

Used snowshoes up & down

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