[TR] East Wilmans Spire - Beckey/Staley 8/3/2013

[origin_ing]

Trip: East Wilmans Spire - Beckey/Stanely

 

Date: 8/3/2013

 

Trip Report:

Climbed East Wilmans Spire with Taylor on Saturday 8/3. We both found this route highly enjoyable. The snow gully currently has a moat that can be bypassed by scrambling on the rocks to the left. We did the rock section in two pitches using a 70m rope.

 

The approach up the scree slope. Might be easier in the spring with snow cover.

 

 

The Gully. This is near the moat. There is a sketchy rap station off this ledge we used.

 

Taylor on the honda civic size summit. The anchors are still solid, albeit messy.

 

 

Taylor rappin off the summit.

 

Gear Notes:

Pro to 2inches (smaller cams helpful), ice axe + ice tool (very helpful), crampons.

 

Approach Notes:

Monte Cristo > Glacier Basin Trail > Ascend the obvious scree hillside.

Edited August 12, 2013 by Off_White