[TR] Black Peak - NE Ridge 7/10/2013

[olymand]

Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge

 

Date: 7/10/2013

 

Trip Report:

Scott and I decided to take a leisurely overnight trip to Black Peak. Jim Nelson's description sounded like just our cup of tea. At Rainy Pass, we chatted with a solo climber who had turned around at the start of the rock, owing to its apparent steepness. He reported having issues with a frisky goat at Wing Lake. The goat had charged, and he was forced to climb a tree. Indeed, we had some issues with the [img:left]http://[/img] goat,nicknamed "Billy" by our predecessor, and we worked hard to keep him at a distance. We were very careful with our food and our pee, but he was very persistant. We tried to keep him at a distance by making noise and throwing a few light stones in his direction. The incident in the Olympics last year was certainly in our thoughts..

 

Took 4 leisurely hours to get to Wing Lake, easy to knock off one hour--two if day tripping. Left camp at 730, started climbing the rock at 10. Again, we were definitely "on vacation." There are some moat issues, severe overhangs. loose rock at the first half, but not too bad with just two of us. We didnt' know the route, but took the time to find the easiest way to the ridge. Great Ridge! Flat rocks like a two foot sidewalk... some solid fun pitches in the second half. We did it ass backwards-pitched the early loose stuff and simuled the second half. better to short rope and scramble the first half traverse stuff...

 

summit at 430. Again, no speed records, but we were having a whee of a time in the sunshine...Left the summit at 5, back at camp at 730. Lots of scree surfing and class 3-4 downclimbing. Note to self: stay right longer and enjoy more soft snow and less scree. On our way out of camp we met 3 climbers headed up the scramble route with plans to camp on the summit.

We watched them disappear into the gloamin' without the slightest trace of envy. Said goodbye to Billy the not-really-a-goat at 8, back at the car at 11. I packed my headlamp and had to do the bunny hop with Scott by the time we hit Heather Pass.

Great trip

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Boots, odd nuts, 1,.75,.5 Cams, (could have used a bit more pieces) 5 doubles, 5 singles. 40 m rope. crampons, axe, helmet.

 

Approach Notes:

Great trail to Heather Pass, some snow patches before Wing Lake, Wing Lake covered with snow, just open enough at the edges for water.

 

Edited July 15, 2013 by olymand