Dave7 Posted March 13, 2013 Posted March 13, 2013 (edited) Trip: Keene Valley, NY - Chouinard's Gully Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: My climbing partner Chris and I decided to make one last trip out to the 'Daks to get on some ice as spring is quickly taking hold out here in NY. We left around 6am making the 3 hour drive out to Keene Valley, one of the great mountain towns in the high peaks region. We were concerned about climbing ice considering the forecast called for 50 degree temperatures!! We chose Chouinard's Gully because it is out of the sun for most of the day. CG is one of the classic routes in the 'Daks, the FA made by its namesake in 1969, during Yvon's visit to the region. It is a very aesthetic WI3 route that is done usually in 2 or 3 pitches. Chris and I opted to to do it in 2 full 60 meter pitches. Not going to lie, I was a little nervous leading this route, as it would be pushing my limits, I had only been climbing ice for 2 years, and leading for only the latter half of this season on WI2 routes. Chris provided ample motivation and didn't give me any reasons to bail. We crossed Chapel pond and reached the base of the route around 9:15 to discover we already behind 2 parties. The party ahead of us was also celebrating the last day out of the season and decided to make it costume ice climbing day out. One girl was wearing a superman shirt and cape while her partner was wearing a pink tutu. It was pretty awesome, we chatted at the base and at the first belay. Great meeting you guys! P1 ascends easy ice/ snow to a 10-15 meter vertical ice step. This pitch went smoothly and before I knew it I was at the first belay, a set of trees on climbers left. Chris followed and we ended up spending some time at the first belay while the ladies led P2 and rapped off. P2 ascends a short snow gully and reaches a section of 60 degree ice leading to another 15 meter vertical stop. Chris followed and before we knew it we were getting ready to rap off. The descent is straight forward, we made 2 rappels with 2 60m half ropes. I was STOKED to have led my first WI3 route. Definitely a good way to closeout the 2012-2013 ice season out here in NY. I know I know, not too hard for all you real alpinists out here, but I was excited to be improving. Here are some photos: Crossing Chapel Pond CG route overlay View from the top of P1 Looking up at P2, Chris ready to belay Me waiting for the ladies to rap Chris following P2 Topped out Hope you enjoy Gear Notes: I recommend 2 ropes for the rappels, twins, half ropes, or a single and a tag would all work fine. Screws and slings to your hearts content Approach Notes: Cross Chapel Pond, make sure it is frozen! Edited March 13, 2013 by Dave7 Quote
mountainmatt Posted March 14, 2013 Posted March 14, 2013 Very nice! Looks like a fun one The large picture shows a large number of good looking lines up there. I really do need to make the trip to the Daks... . Quote
Mal Con eh Posted April 7, 2013 Posted April 7, 2013 Cool, this is our back yard. Been in summer but not winter. Looks fun. Quote
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