[TR] Squamish, BC - Sq Butrress, Angels Crest, Deidre, Calc, Memorial 10/1/2012

smithxrandy · November 20, 2012

Trip: Squamish, BC - Sq Butrress, Angels Crest, Deidre, Calc, Memorial

Date: 10/1/2012

Trip Report:

After working friday we headed up to Departure Bay to catch the ferry over to Horseshoe Bay to avoid Vancouver traffic. Our driving paid off, ending up in Squamish by 10pm. Upon pulling into Squamish we decided to hop onto a climb. Despite the moist slab, moist air and thick fog, we started up Deidre. By 3am we had topped out and were hiking back down to the jeep.

After a late night of last minute multi pitch we had decided given the forecast it would be best to crag. We spent the day in the Smoke Bluffs, enjoying all top 100 classics. Retiring early for the night gave us lots of rest to start early on our next mission, Angels Crest.

By 545am we were onto the first pitch. Great climbing all the way, great thin finger cracks, a little thin face, lots of nice jamming. Along the way we were passed by a guy soloing.. we got to watch him cruise up the very exposed 10a hand to fist crack near the top. Lastly we shimmied our ways up the thin chimney. I ended up having to tag my bag .. camelbacks got through fine. Topping out just before sunset put us at the jeep for 8pm, just in time to rush to the ferry to drop our friend off.

Crashing hard and sleeping in with no solid plans for the next day, we were already amazingly satisfied. However, after a mellow morning wakeup and arriving at the Apron, we decided to climb Calculus Crack. IMO the start via St Vitus Dance was rather poor quality climbing most the way. Calculus was a very nice spot.. 20m of secure fists and hands to a gear belay, up to a near overhanging finger crack... that sure made my day! We ended up continuing on to Memorial and topping out on The Chief for the second time in two days, via the Squamish Buttress. ( Another superb few pitches!)

After a couple leads, a couple painful falls arrested by hand and finger jams, and a ton of amazing climbing, my first trip to Squamish came to a close. Safe to say I will be back soon.

Gear Notes:

Squamish Buttress - Bring a few extra c3s or nuts .. maybe we skimped on the guides recommendation but were kind of stressing as it stayed super thin multiple placements in a row.

Angels Crest - Some triples were amazingly useful to sling trees

Approach Notes:

Most trails were easy to find, Angels Crest was even marked if I recall correct.