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Posted

Trip: Sahale Mountain - Quien Sabe

 

Date: 9/8/2012

 

Trip Report:

Christa and I had heard good things about the Sahale Arm/Cascade Pass area and wanted to spend a weekend up there. We also decided to climb Sahale Mountain, but when all the Sahale Glacier camps were reserved, we decided to approach from Boston Basin via the Quien Sabe. We followed the climbers trail (just below the hiker's trail head) to the lower camps. We then scrambled up to the nose of the glacier.

 

Crevasses were prevelant, but we took the steeper route up looker's right and were able to avoid them. We saw one group come down looker's left after traversing and that looked like a much different climb. Looker's right (our route) was more direct and steep with harder snow being it was late season. The looker's left route was much more gradual with fewer crevasses.

 

We then followed the common route on the upper part of the glacier to the rock ridge to the summit. The ridge was exposed, but easy to negotiate. The top pitch was class 4/5 for about 30 feet. The summit had amazing views, but a nearby forest fire had just started and the smoke started to haze the view.

 

We decided to take the Sahale glacier route down and traverse the Sahale arm above the moraines back to camp. As we were coming down, we saw a helicopter performing a rescue in the basin. The travese had some class 4 down climbing, but we got a marvelous sunset to go with our scrambling. We made it back to camp just as it was getting very dark.

 

A few pictures:

Nose of the Quien Sabe

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Christa Leading the Glacier Route

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Final Rock Ridge

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Success!

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Rescue Helicopter

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Sunset

DSC_9546.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Single rope

Ice Axe

Crampons

Prusiks, picket, pulley

4 Cams

4 Alpine draws

ATC

 

Approach Notes:

Climber's trail was dusty but easy to follow. The cut off for the lower camp is hard to spot, but it is just before the next creek after the large creek crossing once you get out of the trees. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the large creek.

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Posted

Great photos! I was out with friends on Eldorado that weekend. We could see the helicopter too. A ranger we met on Eldo said there was hurt climber on Torment. Do you know anything about what went down?

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