Topos for Moderate Routes in Little Switzerland?

[old_phart]

Party of two planning on a weeks adventure in Little Switzerland next July. Looking for topos, photos, route descriptions not already in new book "Alaska : A Climbing Guide". Have searched net extensively and asked AAC re info on moderate rtes in this area, without much success. Can't climb much harder than 5.8 anymore. Can anyone help with guidance, advice, spray, whatever?

[forrest_m]

oldfart – sounds like you need to get yourself down to the library. I’m sure a city as big as chicago will have a full run of the american alpine journal in the main downtown branch. take each issue starting about 1980, flip to the alaska section, and copy the appropriate pages. until the mid-90s, there won’t be little switzerland stuff every year. also, there’s an article with photos and descriptions in an issue of climbing about 18 months ago. you’re not likely to find much more than photos with lines drawn and written descriptions, not ‘topos.” If you can track that down, you’ll be ahead of the game.

 

I think you will find that the best objective for the kind of routes you describe will be the “trolls”, a three-horned spire just west of the “Throne.” You don’t really need too much beta – you can really just follow your nose to find the easiest routes, which usually involve a little 5.8 and some easier climbing.

 

Finally – I followed this same process before our trip in ’94. If you come up dry, PM me your address and I’ll mail you photocopies of what I have. I say leave this for a last resort mostly because there’s been a lot of activity up there the last few years and so the info I’ve got is pretty out of date.

 

[Ade]

Either Climbing or rock & Ice had an article on Little Switzerland. Not sure which issue but something in the last eighteen months. The library has them too I think. Might be another thing to look for.

[old_phart]

Much Thanks to both forrest_m and Ade. Turns out that Climbing magazine issue #196 has the article. Both Duane Raleigh and Jonathan Thesenga, editors of Rock and Ice, and Climbing Magazines respectively were very helpful in tracking it down. Interestingly enough, the climbers in the article spent two weeks in Little Switz and their favorite climb was the moderate route up the south face of Middle Troll. And this from 5.12 climbers!

 

Forrest_m is right about the American Alpine Journal being a good source of route information. The 1978 issue deals with Robinson and Okonek's "discovery" and initial climbs in this great area.

 

This was my first experience with this website, and I am impressed with the speed, accuracy of the info, and helpful attitudes expressed by all.

 

Thanks everyone.

PS.......awesome campsite photo by forrest_m ~Very Cool

[old_phart]

Almost forgot, the 2001 issue of American Alpine Journal has a very nice topo and aerial photo of the area. The map covers the entire Pika glacier as well as those surrounding it, and labels all the interesting spires.