dugdaled Posted August 19, 2012 Posted August 19, 2012 Trip: Shuksan - Sulphide glacier Date: 8/12/2012 Trip Report: Charlie and I climbed Shuksan last weekend. It was something we both had wanted to try for a long time—and with the great weather forecast, we went for it. At first, we were disappointed about not getting a permit for the Sulphide glacier camping area, but as it turned out, we had a much better spot just outside the park boundary! The road was fine, and the trail in straightforward, except for about a half mile where there are about 8 deadfalls across the trail that need to be circumvented. It’s not too difficult, though would be challenging in the dark. Our bivy site was at 4900 feet, with running water coming from the snowfields above, and a wide open view to the east and west, with Mt. Baker looming large. We enjoyed the meteors and clear skies all night. We were moving by 5 AM the next day, with straightforward trail and snow climbing to the standard camp with again a great view of Baker. From there, again straightforward snow climbing and minimal crevasse navigation led to the summit scramble. This was more than we expected in terms of length, looseness, and exposure—but we summitted by 10 and enjoyed an hour on the summit, with great views in all directions. The descent was easy route-finding, scrambling back down to the snow; there are several excellent rappel stations for those who prefer that option. Be careful about loose rock on this! It felt LONG back to the bivy and then the car—but we had a great trip! Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear Approach Notes: Careful following the trail through the deadfall Quote
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