[TR] Fortress and Chiwawa - Fortress East Ridge, Chiwawa SE Face 8/13/2012

[Le Piston]

Trip: Fortress and Chiwawa - Fortress East Ridge, Chiwawa SE Face

 

Date: 8/13/2012

 

Trip Report:

My climbing partner once told me the lowest form of climber was the peak bagger. I must have been a bad influence on him, because he has joined the club with a vengeance! We had the weekend free and decided to knock off a couple more "top 100" Washington peaks, and decided to try Fortress and Chiwawa. We got an early start Saturday morning at the Buck Creek/Trinity trailhead and made good time to Chiwawa Basin. There are nice camp sites here by the river crossing, but knowing we had a long Sunday ahead we decided to camp in the upper basin (approx. 5500 ft.)We got up about 5:00 a.m. Sunday and did a part bushwhack, part trail hike up towards the East Ridge of Fortress.There is a moderately steep snowfield that gets you onto the ridge about 8300 feet.From there it's a loose 3-4th class scramble along the crest and up a short chimney to the summit. We met another party on top who came up from Buck Creek Pass. The views are pretty nice up there! We downclimbed the route and traversed over (mostly snow) to the col below Chiwawa approx.7300 ft. We had thought of doing the West Ridge, but ended up doing the scree fest Southwest Face/Ridge.We shared another traditional Ritter Sport summit chocolate reward.It was nice to see a different aspect of Fortress.It was a long, hot descent back to camp. We especially enjoyed the bushwhack part where you couldn't see your feet. It made for a long day, especially with the torment of ravenous flies and skeeters, but a lot of beautiful scenery. Fortress is a fun climb, Chiwawa is a rubble heap, but at least it's off the peak bagging list now.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, and helmet. We brought a rope and small rock rack but it ended up staying in the pack.

 

Approach Notes:

A few minor blowdowns on the trail. When going from Chiwawa Basin to upper basin, stay out of the marshy downed tree mess by getting into the trees climbers left (unless you enjoy bushwhacking). Lots of running water below 8000 feet. Even more bugs! The Chiwawa river is too wide to jump, but only calf deep.