[TR] Mt. Baker - Coleman-Deming 8/7/2012

[Ptown_Climber1]

Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman-Deming

 

Date: 8/7/2012

 

Trip Report:

I'm a little late getting this trip report out, but felt this climb certainly warranted one.....Rich, Dean, and I had Baker on our list for quite some time, but living in Portland, it's quite a haul to get up there (essentially 6 hours). But now having done it, I'm kicking myself for not getting up there sooner. Baker, it turns out, is the total package: short on the carnival crowds that overrun Rainier and Hood, stunning high alpine scenery with glaciers that for a moment make one forget about global warming, a rainbow cloak of wildflowers, and a climbing experience that is challenging, diverse, and exhilarating. Now I understand why people come from all over to climb it. We met fellow climbers from near and far...most from Canada...some from Europe even.

 

We left Portland early on Monday morning, with hopes of getting to the trailhead by a little after lunchtime...mission accomplished there. After a quick lunch in the parking lot we hoisted onto our backs about 50 pounds or so of gear and were off. Before going a hundred yards we learned that the bridge over the river is out, so the first of a few precarious river crossings across logs and wet rocks was in order. Fortunately these all went off without incident.

 

The lower trail is akin to hiking through a Hawaiian rainforest-different vegetation of course-but similar. The rain did indeed drizzle down on us, but nothing too substantial. After about 2.5 miles we got our first view of the mountain and its vast glaciers. Awe-inspiring.

 

Soon we reached the hogsback, not to be confused with our hogsback on Hood of course....this one is still part of the dry trail and reminiscent of a scene from The Sound of Music....here we first see endless fields of wildflowers that, with the lower, serac-addled glacier in the background, make for quite a sight. Cameras cannot do this justice.......Above the hogsback we reach high camp. There is an abundance of bivys available, and in fact that first night we were the ONLY ones on the mountain.

 

The sky cleared out, and after a surprisingly tasty dinner of shepard's pie cooked up by Rich, we enjoyed sipping some anejo tequila as the sun set out over the Puget Sound. Life, I was reminded, is beautiful, and while I'm not a church going guy, watching the alpenglow display on Baker on a summer night is a spiritual experience if there ever was one.

We awaken at 3:00 for our summit climb....after some rustling around and the inevitable question that ALWAYS goes through my mind in that dark, cold tent, "Why do I do this?", we emerge. Eat some bad oatmeal, rummage in the dark as we strap on those pickets, harnesses, etc....mice dart this way and that between the rocks.........The climb begins.

 

Right out of the gates we are on a fairly steep snowfield, passing crevasses that at the time seem big, but as we learn later, these are merely cute compared to the man-eating behemoths yet to come on the upper glacier. The morning is a crisp and clear one...wind is minimal. One couldn't ask for much better....the sound of crampons cutting into the snow, the clank of an ice axe, and your own breathing....it all becomes part of a background symphony...a soundtrack for contemplation, personal thoughts, and sometimes just plain 'spacing out'. But upwards we go.

Soon we reach the 'football field'....an open, flatter part of the glacier that is criscrossed with smaller crevasses, almost like yard lines. But it becomes apparent then, that even after an hour of glacier-trudging, our end zone is well above us, and truly not even yet visible......The climb becomes real though at this point as we traverse diagonally up through the glacier, beneath ice cliffs, between massive crevasses that seem to come out of nowhere, and through debris fields that no doubt are reminders that things do indeed fall down here, and we had better not be there when they do....keep moving, keep moving....sometimes too much thinking isn't a good thing.

After what seems like an eternity we reach the saddle between Baker's summit mass and Colfax Peak to its west. It's a place called the Pumice Ridge, but that seems way too nice a name. Really it's a 300 yard, knee grinding, mind-numbing and discouraging scramble on loose volcanic rubble and dirt...no step a solid one, as your crampons squeak and grind over rock. A redeeming factor is an overwhelming and impressive view now of the Deming Glacier to the south as you straddle this rocky ridge between two of the peak's most massive and signature glaciers. The crevasses below us are haunting.

Eventually though we do regain the steep snowfield which serves like a ramp up to the summit caldera.

 

It's steep, and the run out isn't a good one, but there is a clear boot path all the way up....the adrenalin is welling up now as we can smell the summit, both figuratively and literally....the scent of sulphur is in the air. Again, after what seems like forever, we turn the corner at the top and are greeted by the great domed summit mass.....and wind that nearly knocks you over. Ahhh....we're here, right? Nope....because anyone who has climbed a bunch of Cascade volcanos knows, they seem to enjoy taunting you with false summits...no, the true summit is all the way over THERE....that sad looking mole-hill at the far southeast side. We make our way there...I hit the deck...thrilled to be at the top a new mountain....it's 11:05 AM. The Mazamas register box creaks heavily open....after signing the register, and a few requisite summit shots we are off. I really can't relax until we get back down off the glacier...

But we're smiling inside and out...I've climbed a lot of mountains, and I hate to rank them....but Mt. Baker has got to be near the top....I look forward to going back some day.

Kris

Portland, OR

 

 

Gear Notes:

rope, pickets, standard glacier travel/crevasse rescue gear

 

Approach Notes:

Bridge is out....3-4 river crossings, but not too difficult....a couple snowbridges, but still in good shape...many crevasses you can work around or jump over...

 

Edited August 13, 2012 by Ptown_Climber1