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Posted (edited)

Trip: Mount Baker - Easton Glacier

 

Date: 8/11/2012

 

Trip Report:

This route could hardly be in better shape. Camped at 6,000 feet on the Railroad Grade and began ascent left of the ridge up snowfields to western toe of glacier around 7,000 feet. Then it was pretty much straight at the crater rim with a bit of weaving around larger crevasses that are opening and a lot of stepping over smaller cracks. Snow in perfect shape for crampons. Above crater rim, traversed way west around and over crevasses and then way back east to cross the top of the rocky ridge and get up on summit plateau. Started from camp at 12:15 a.m., to crater rim by 4 a.m. for long rest there, then on true summit by 5:55 a.m. for sunrise. Virtually windless. Two ropes of three and one of two. Few other parties on route, maybe two? This is definitely the time of year to climb Baker.

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear, 30m ropes and pickets.

 

Approach Notes:

Clear trail from Schreiber's Meadow to camp spots high on RR Grade. There is also great, dry camping at 7,000 feet where glacier begins.

Edited by mikestuckey
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Posted (edited)

My group climbed Coleman-Deming a few days ago, and also thought the route was in fantastic shape. Was curious about how Easton Glacier route compares to it; may have to try that one next time. Nice job!

Any pics?

Edited by Ptown_Climber1

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