[TR] WA Pass- Spontaneity Arete & E. face of Lexington - 8/1/2012

[arentz]

Trip: WA Pass- Spontaneity Arete & E. face of Lexington -

 

Date: 8/1/2012

 

Trip Report:

We spent two days up at Washington Pass last week during the heat wave. On day 1 we arrived late and only had an afternoon to do a warm up, so we scrambled up Spontaneity Arete on Le Petit Chaval. We climbed up the three fixed lines on the approach and were to the base of the climb by 1:30 (45 minute approach at a reasonable pace). Although this is listed to have some 5.7 climbing, we simulclimbed the whole thing and I didn’t feel as though anything was tougher than 5.6, with a lot of 4th class/3rd class. Maybe we were off route, although we tried to follow the most difficult line on the ridge. Definitely a much easier outing than the West Ridge of Forbidden. Topped out in about 2 hours. The descent involved a combination of downclimbing the route and scrambling down the gully. Awesome work by everyone who maintained the trail and fixed lines. Thanks for making the approach/descent route very easy to follow. It would be a great first alpine lead.

 

 

 

On day 2 we climbed the East Face of Lexington Tower. We crossed the snow with approach shoes. The moat was easy to cross and we approach the 2nd pitch (the 5.7 run out) by traversing left on the ledge. I found the 5.7 run out on pitch 2 was the psychological crux of the route. Definitely a couple of long stretches with mediocre gear, although there may have been a different line that would have been more protectable. I linked pitches 2 and 3. The climbing improved considerably here, and pitches 4-7 were super fun. Pitch 4 was fun hands, and pitch 6 was short but involved a few fun 5.9 traverse moves around a roof onto a fun flake. Pitch 7 was easily protectable with an (old) no. 6 camelot. I thought pitch 6 was probably the crux of the route, and the off width was not bad, with two bolts that made it very safe. However, I was pretty tired by the time I reached the top of pitch 7 (I suck at OW). A few more easy pitches got us to the summit, I think it took us about 8 hours from the car to the summit. The descent down the backside gully was very straightforward by cascade standards and involved unexposed scrambling and 1 rappel. We were back to the car by sunset for some PBRs and dinner. This was a great route for the grade and I would highly recommend it.

 

Unfortunately for those of you wanting photos (and fortunately for my partner), J is in the Bugaboos right now. I’ll try to post a few more pictures when I get them off his camera. Here are the ones I have.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Too much for Spontaneity. Singles of stoppers and 0.5-2 cams would have been fine to sew it up.

 

We brought a lot of big gear on Lexington, but would have been fine with a set of stoppers, singles to a no. 4 and one no. 6. I didn't use the no. 4.5 or 5 on the OW.