Torment Forbidden Traverse 8/7-8/8/12 - Torment Forbidden Traverse 8/7/2012

[sgreg]

Trip: [TR] Torment Forbidden Traverse 8/7-8/8/12 - Torment Forbidden Traverse

 

Date: 8/7/2012

 

Trip Report:

Just got back from the traverse and wanted to give current conditions.

 

- The 3rd Class gulley moat that leads form the Taboo Glacier is still in, it was touching the ground and passable on the climbers right side of where it ends.

 

-The first rappel moats on the north side had passable bridges.

 

- The snow traverse was still in. A good amount of snow still covering the whole traverse, a crack is close to opening about half way through it.

 

-We didn't rappel the approach col. It was reported to be out. We did the first standard rappel then walked on 3rd class ledges for 50 ft-ish to the edge,skiers right above the 2nd rapp station (tat slung horn). There is a rapp station here, then 5-6 (don't quote me on the number of rapps but length is on) single length rappels to the glacier.

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/IMG_06713.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/IMG_06631.jpg[/img]

 

 

Gear Notes:

small set of nuts, small single alpine rack to 2 inches. Standard glacier gear and light bivy gear

 

Approach Notes:

Boston basin pull out just before cascade pass Trail head. Follow trail to Boaston Basin. Send.

Edited August 9, 2012 by jon