[TR] Forbidden Peak - W Ridge 7/12/2012

[zwinters]

Trip: Forbidden Peak - W Ridge

 

Date: 7/12/2012

 

Trip Report:

Because this is such a frequented route I'll spare you any of the redundant route information (there's an abundance of route beta on the web and elsewhere), and I'll just jump to the route conditions.

 

Road: Perfect

 

Trail: The first stream crossing gets your attention a little. Not bad though, just a ~5 foot jump.

 

Boston Basin: Snow down to tree line. Water available throughout.

 

W Ridge Couloir: Man eating hole on climber's right. Go climbers left of the large rock below the couloir. Snow was soft corn and did not require protection, though it is exposed to the hole below. Snow reaches the top, no loose rock couloir travel necessary.

 

W Ridge: Perfect condition, snow free, and easy climbing. Approach shoes were sufficient for us, no need for rock shoes. 5.6 is generous. Felt more like 5.2 even on the crest the whole route. 6-8 pitches if you pitch it out. Certainly not necessary and would recommend a running belay on all (or all but one) pitch depending on your comfort level.

 

Descent: I recommend down climbing the ridge rather than rappelling, even though rap stations are abundant.

From ridge: 30m rap to snow. <60m rap from top of snow to far (east) side of dog-leg in couloir. <60m rap to slings at skiers left (east) above the large hole. 60m rap (not fall line, careful of pendulums) to bottom of couloir and easy climbing. Entire couloir can be down climbed depending on snow and comfort.

 

Gear Notes:

Boots, approach shoes, axe, crampons.

Nuts, slings, and a few medium cams.

Picket(s) if you care to protect the couloir (likely not necessary).

 

Approach Notes:

First snow to stash your beer is the first stream crossing.