bryce398 Posted July 11, 2012 Posted July 11, 2012 Trip: Mt. Baker w/ side trip to Adams - Coleman-Deming Date: 7/6/2012 Trip Report: This is my first TR so if it blows, is incorect or offers any BS advice feel free to let me have it. Josh, Derick and myself decided to climb Baker and since this was our first expirence with glaciers we decided on a nice easy cattle route. After days of watching youtube how to vids and studying Freedom of the Hills. We set up some 3:1 z pullies and practiced ascending and deemed ourselves qualified to climb. We decided to do it car to car for an added workout. We arrived at the Heliotrope Ridge trail and started hiking at 3:10am. I had hiked up to the Hogsback a day prior with my dad and route finding was easy by headlamp and the moonlight. We reached the last of the tents on the hogsback around 5:30ish just at first light. Looking up at the 1st section of Glacier We hiked up this section unroped, and axes and crampons stowed. Towards the top I noticed a crevasses to my left and right with the boot track running up and then left/east around and over. At this point I thought if I am going to carry a rope I might as well use it. So we geared up at the next flat section below the Black Buttes. Baker-left /Colfax Peak-right Route generally heads south towards Colfax Peak to gain high ground above massive crevasses to the east then turns south east/left towards the saddle Route finding was easy due to the massive boot track and 2 rope teams from AAI in front of us. Almost to the saddle After reaching the saddle the wind picked up, and we put on our shells and helmits. And yes I know I should have hade it on from the the start of the climb. A helmit works great in keeping the hood out of ur face and to keep ur skull in one piece. We then started hiking up the snow covered pumice ridge towards the Roman Nose. View down pumice ridge towards saddle on descent View up pumice ridge on decent. Roman Nose/left We stayed well right/south of the Roman Nose, this was the steepest section of the day, but conditions were perfect for good cramponing. After gaining the false summit it was about 500-800ft of sloging across a generally flat plain to reach this 30ft ish hump that is the summit. Josh and Derick on the Summit. Time: 11am We then descended the same way up with no issues, reaching the car around 2pm. Derick and I then drove to Troute Lake the following day, and Josh went off to train for a half Iron Man he is doing this coming weekend. I soloed Adams South Climb on Sun, and am throwing it in here cause it is not worth its own TR. Time: Left car 2:30am-Summit 7:50-back to car 11am Note to self, Buy AT Skies, from watching other folks it saves so much time and energy. And looks like a hell of a lot more fun then glisading on ur backside. Also if anyone wants to take a n00b out on some AI or moderate alpine rock shoot me a PM. I have full trad rack, screws, tools, etc. Ive climbed trad for about 5 years on & off (probably lead 5.7/follow 5.8 or Vantage 5.10) and followed on WI3-4. I live in Tacoma and will be in WA till the end of July. Gear Notes: Sun screen, my face is still peeling off. Approach Notes: Follow the obviouse boot track if no new snow. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.