[TR] Mount Washington - North Ridge 6/13/2012

[dirtysouth]

Trip: Mount Washington - North Ridge

 

Date: 6/13/2012

 

Trip Report:

Had a great trip on Washington's North Ridge yesterday. Left the car at 10:45....alpine start, baby! Approach on the PCT was straightforward, although it eventually turned snow-covered and we saw no trace of the North Ridge climbers trail marker, so after an hour, we just headed east and uphill. Tree wells were pretty gnar and we did lots of up and down and around on the mushy snow....took lots of time and energy - maybe in 3-4 weeks it'll be melted out all the way up to the ridge. Got on the crest of the ridge and on route around 1:45. Plenty of snow and some melted out trail to hike on. Ditched the skis and boots low on the ridge. Had to scramble around some snow-filled gullies and had some scrambling traverses that won't be necessary in a few weeks when it all melts out. After finding our way to the base of the summit pinnacle, we opted not to rope up, being that placing pro seemed sketchy and not beneficial. Fortunately all the moves up the ramps and chimneys were mostly free of snow and ice and proved easy. Cool exposure. Topped out at 4:30...a little later than I'd liked. 3 raps off the fixed slings/rings on our 50m rope went easy and we scrambled back down and out. A few ski turns before the tree wells got the better of us. Back at the car at 8:30pm. Cool mountain - would love to climb the same route in 2 months and shave off a few hours with lighter packs and no snow.

 

Gear Notes:

Helmets, ice axe or whippet, 50m rope and minimal rack, but didn't place any gear - maybe I could have placed a piece or 2 for mental pro

Gear we brought and didn't really use or need - skis, skins, ski boots, crampons, nuts/cams/extra slings.....I climbed most of the north ridge and summit pinnacle in five ten guide tennies, but would have been much nicer in light mountaineering boots or waterproof trail runners.

 

Approach Notes:

Brought skis, but wasn't worth it......20 lbs that we didn't need