[TR] Prusik and High Priest - South Face--Beckey, West Face of High Priest 9/23/2011

[Kyle_Flick]

Trip: Prusik and High Priest - South Face--Beckey, West Face of High Priest

 

Date: 9/23/2011

 

Trip Report:

Adam Vognild, Tom Janisch and I enjoyed a couple days in the Enchantments for what we thought might be the close of the summer alpine season up there. It was the second time up the Beckey route of the South Face of Prusik for me and the one I prefer vs. the Burgner-Stanley route which seems to have more than its share of injuries, especially on the somewhat run-out last pitch. We enjoyed the line to the top with all it's variety--chimneys and clean 5.9 crack climbing. We finished early enough to even top rope the last pitch of the Burgner-Stanley route before rapping and heading to camp at Temple Lake.

The next day with cloudy skies, wind and a touch of precip, we hiked up to the base of the High Priest and eventually found our way up the west face. It was a fun 3 pitch route that probably should be rated 5.4 (vs. 4th class as described in Beckey's alpine guide book)that deposits you on a summit that probably has the best view of the lower Enchantment Lakes of all the Temple Ridge peaks. Highly recommended.

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack up to 4" for Prusik. Tiny alpine rack for High Priest. Need a rope for the rappels off both peaks.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow free up Aasgard Pass and out Snow Creek.

[Ed_Hobbick]

I climbed the first pitch of this route in July. How does that pitch compare in difficulty compared to the rest of them on the Becky Rt.

 

Ed

 

 

[Kyle_Flick]

The first pitch combines two chimneys and felt harder than 5.7 (more like 5.8) to me. The cruxes of the climb, in my opinion, are: The long pitch above Snafflehound ledge and the last short pitch to the summit which go at 5.9; although the crack of the lower 20' of that last pitch is off hands and feels more like 5.10(a).

[Ed_Hobbick]

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll climb it next year.

If you need a partner one of these days let me know.

 

 

[telemarker]

Cool.