[TR] Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm 7/23/2011

[Devin27]

Trip: Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm

 

Date: 7/23/2011

 

Trip Report:

Photos to follow when I get 5 free minutes to download them.

 

Our original plan was an overnight at Sahale Glaicer camp to tackle 3 Bugler top 100, Sahale, Buckner and Horseshoe (I have no idea why Horseshoe makes the list, but its there). The plan however fell apart when all the permits were snatched up early in the day by a certain large climbing group that will remain nameless.

We decided a day trip up Sahale Arm would still be fun, and we would decide on our destination once we got there.

 

The hike up to cascade pass and the arm was uneventful. Snow starts on the pass around 1000 ft up, but it was easy travel. We moved very quickly up to the pass and up the arm. The snow on the arm was broken up here and there with meadows and rock piles starting to come back out, but there is still a lot of snow and it doesn't seem to be going anywhere too fast. We followed a goats tracks the whole way up, but never did find him.

 

Once at the "glacier" we decided that Buckner was out of our reach today and so we headed up Sahale. Great snow again made for quick travel. We headed up the right side of the glacier basin to avoid the reported (but not seen) crevasse that can open in the center of the glacier. We did not bother to rope up, given the lack of crevasses reported on this glacier. There were several other groups on the route and no one else roped up.

 

There is snow all the way to the summit block. Once there, we choose a path on the left side of the ridge, because the right side was taken by a team that was setting up a fixed line. Do not take the farthest left route, because this ends about 15 ft from the summit with a tricky move and poor holds. The best route is slightly to the right of the northwest ridge. The climbers on the right route called it low class 5 terrain, but it looked more like class 4 to me.

 

No sign of any register at the summit. Some quick photos and we had to get moving as the afternoon groups were catching up and there wasn't much room at the summit. There is a nice Rap station with ring near the Northwest ridge. Snow was perfect to plunge down and we were back at the pass in no time.

 

The same cant be said for getting from the pass to the car, which seemed to take forever. We also had to constantly pass the day hiker tourist crowd, many of whom were surprisingly displeased about moving aside for fast groups. O the joys of hiking in a popular area

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, Crampons (didnt need), Rope (used for summit block handline when I got off route, and rappel), Harness

 

Approach Notes:

I'll get the times off my camera

 

[DAK]

I took a group of older scouts up on the 29th, coming in from the east. We found your goat and the crevass opening up. Was pretty obvious. Opening up from the left and right side. no need to rope up then either.