[TR] Eldorado update - 5/26/2011

[jspitzer]

Trip: Eldorado/Shuskan update -

 

Date: 5/26/2011

 

Trip Report:

Hey....

Here's a trip report for climbing Eldorado and Shukan w/some pictures

 

http://www.snowrockandiceadventures.com/index.php?page=blog

 

Eldorado: Overall it is in really good shape, just deep trail breaking!

 

Details:

I just got off a trip from Eldorado on May 20th-23rd. The trail has

some new down fall in sections but isn't to bad. I hit snow just

below the first boulder field at @ 3,800ft. The lower boulder field

is melting out quickly and the snow is very deep/punchy. Above the

first boulder field at around 4,500ft there is multiple large

avalanche debris crossing (D2/D3) size avalanche that came down

probably a couple weeks ago. Pretty impressive, it ran into the trees

the large old growth trees.

 

We camped at 5,800ft in the Eldorado Creek drainage. We spent all 3

nights at this campsite and it did not freeze any night we were

there.

 

Crossing the col at 6,200ft was no problem, FYI there are some large

cornice's on that ridge line. We found deep snow conditions in Roush

Creek drainage getting up to the Eldorado Glacier. Some small D1-D2

size avalanches have come off the hanging cliffs/snowfields on the

climbers right hand side heading up to the Eldorado Glacier. However

there is still alot of snow on some of those cliffs with large glide

cracks forming.

 

The East ridge is currently all snow covered with deep trail

breaking. The classic summit ridge consisted of thigh deep snow.

 

The Eldorado and Inspiration Glaciers have a lot of snow and no

crevasse were showing currently. Also the NW face of Forbidden looks

to be shaping up really well for summer.

Edited May 27, 2011 by jspitzer

[rig]

Thanks for the update. I'm heading in there this weekend! Did you use any pickets on the summit ridge?

Edited May 27, 2011 by rig

[jspitzer]

RIG:

I didn't need any pickets for the summit ridge when I was there. The snow was very deep and soft. I would still recommend carrying a couple just incase conditions have changed.

 

Hope that is helpful