[TR] Mt Buckner - North Face 8/6/2010

[tahah]

Trip: Mt Buckner - North Face

 

Date: 8/6/2010

 

Trip Report:

I climbed the NF on 8/6. (Thanks to Jrace2's TR from 7/26 letting people know it was still in good shape.) The climb is still in good shape, continuous snow the whole way. The bergschrund is still easy to cross on the left. There was not a good freeze overnight, so snow a little soft, but still good climbing conditions. The snow at the narrow part where you traverse left was a bit rotten in places, suggesting it will soon melt out there. Good coverage on the SW descent route, meaning very little talus to walk.

 

Gear Notes:

One ice axe. Being unfamiliar with the route, I brought a second tool, but it was not needed. Crampons.

 

Approach Notes:

Camped at Sahale Glacier camp,and approached via Sahle-Boston traverse. No crevasse problems on the Boston Glacier.

 

A very humanized marmot hangs around the first bivy spot at the Sahale camp. I left no food in camp and it still chewed up my pack hipbelt, probably going after the sweat.