[TR] Mt Baker - Coleman Headwall 7/30/2010

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Trip: Mt Baker - Coleman Headwall

 

Date: 7/30/2010

 

Trip Report:

From camp at the edge of the Colman Glacier I took the high approach route, following the standard route up the right side of the glacier to 8,100', and then traversing with some elevation loss to below the Roman Nose and the up to the avy cone at the base of the climb. (The next day I took the low glacier crossing, about 6,500', to climb the N Ridge, and concluded this would have been a better approach to the headwall.) The snowpack froze well overnight making for good travel across the glacier, and there were no crevasse problems on the approach.

 

I climbed the route on the left side of the center rock island (Beckey's route description, as opposed to Nelson's right side line). The lower part was glacier ice, generally about 50 degrees with some steeper short steps. This was followed by firn with ice bulges. At mid height the angle eases some and I traversed right around a crevasse. A second large crevasse was crossed on ice bridges, leading to the upper 45 degree snow slope and a cruise to the summit. Descended the standard route.

 

While the sight of all the debris at the base of the climb is intimidating, nothing came down the entire climb. This climb is in good shape.

 

Gear Notes:

Two tools.