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[TR] Buckner, Sahale - Southwest Face 7/11/2010


dugdaled

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Trip: Buckner, Sahale - Southwest Face

 

Date: 7/11/2010

 

Trip Report:

Last weekend, Phil, Allan, and I climbed Sahale and Buckner in the spectacular North Cascades. We hiked from Cascade Pass up to Sahale Arm camp at 7600 feet in about 4 hours, and after setting up our bivy site, climbed up the last 1200 feet to Sahale’s summit. The usual right-sided gully or left skyline ridge both had a lot of snow giving very exposed mixed climbing to the summit and fantastic views. The traverse to Boston looked too much for us to start that late in the day. A single 60 meter rope rappel got us off and we descended to a great dinner provided by Phil at our bivy.

 

The next morning, we left camp at 6:15 and went down the East snowfield and rock rib to its toe at 6400 feet. There is a trail on the rib, and by following closely, the amount of 4th class is small. Once on the snow again, we nearly got hit by a basketball sized rock that was going so fast it must have started high on the ridge above. A traverse led us to the steep open slopes of the south aspect of Buckner where the angle was up to 40 degrees, but conditions were excellent. We summitted at 10:30, and after a break headed down. The skies clouded up as we returned toward our camp, and by 2:00, it was a white out on the arm as we followed tracks. As we left our camp, we needed to navigate by compass in the poor visibility , but descended out of the fog at about 6000 feet, and back to the car. An excellent 2 days in the North Cascades!!

 

Edited by dugdaled
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