jesselillis Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Have a few days to kill in Sweden, generally discontent with what I've found via a google search. Anyone been there and done some climbing? Recommend a crag (and a means to arrive at it)? Sport or trad, to 5.11. Thanks for any thoughts or redirects (to more useful URLs than I've found) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmm3 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) I lived in sweden for awhile and have climbed quite a bit around the country. Most detailed info available online is in swedish but I should be able to find a thing or two that can help you out. The question is - where are you going to be? There is great rock on both coasts. The stockholm area has a lot of crags some of which are right in the city. Some sport and some trad. There is a new guidebook out. There is also an online guide in a Wiki format with pretty much everything...You can also get some beta at the Gym in Nacka. There is also some bouldering around stockholm but I don't know much about it. There is a great area just south of stockhom in Norrköping. mostly trad from what I know. the bouldering ont he islands between sweden and finland is supposed to be great. Its in the area of Aland. The west coast by gothenburg is the best swedish climbing in my opinion. The rock is world class but not much over 1 pitch. Some is in the town of gothenburg (Utby being the most popular). North of Gothenburg in the Bohuslän region is really the best Sweden has to offer. You need a car but its quite a bit like J-tree climbing. Steep, hard trad crack climbing. Really great stuff. South by Malmo is a little area on the coast. Starts with a K. Never been there. There is also a lot of bouldering at Kungekull. Supposed to be great, never been there either. If you have a few extra days, its worth the trip to Nissadal in Norway. Big long trad routes. Also Romstal by the Troll wall is great climbing as long as you stay away from the actual troll wall and all the nastieness around it. PM me if you need more specific info. Also, bring a tent. Sweden allows free camping anywhere. Its awsome! Edited May 4, 2010 by jmm3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmm3 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Wiki Guidebook to sweden (mostly in swedish but click KARTA for maps or go to the english section for an overview) http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Huvudsida Overview article http://www.highandlow.nu/referens/OTE_SWE/swe_text01.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonesy Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Best time to go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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