zg1 Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) Greetings, Has anyone gotten a good luck at Buckner's north face the last week or so? I was wondering what the condition of the NF couloir was. The guide book lists the season to Oct, but I'm skeptical that it will go that late without serious schrund issues. Does anyone have any experience on this route in September conditions? Also, does anyone have suggestions on rock pro that could be useful on the route? Thanks in advance for the info! Edited August 17, 2009 by zg1 Quote
Mark_L Posted August 17, 2009 Posted August 17, 2009 I did it about this time last year. It had a double, (soon to be triple) bergschrund. Getting into the couloir was pretty reasonable via the rock on the right, it was probably in the 5.6 - 5.7 range. A small rack was adequate. The upper part of the couloir was bare ice, with rockfall coming down once the sun hit. It would obviously be a good idea to get up the thing before the sun. In September, that's easily done. Keep in mind also that this is a considerably lower snow year than last year along with a sustained drought/heatwave since late May. Unfortunately, the couloir is well hidden and you can't really see its condition until you are right underneath it, unlike the regular North Face which currently looks pretty unappetizing. Hope that helps. Mark Quote
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