[TR] Eldorado Peak - East Ridge 7/19/2009

[t_rutl]

Trip: Eldorado Peak - East Ridge

 

Date: 7/19/2009

 

Trip Report:

With a decent forecast trucked up to Eldo to get out and play. Also attempted Klawatti but the moat's got things busted on the south and didn’t have the time to make a long rock ascent.

 

Left the car Sat morn about 10:15 and were at camp on the ridge by 3:30 under blue skies found a bivy and set up shot in about 30 and decided to hit the summit. Just as we departed the "partly cloudy" in the forecast became whiteout but we trekked up anyway. Waited about 30 or so for a hopeful clearing but not getting one headed back. Met a cool party of 3 heading for Dorado Needle who also ran up Eldo in the clouds. Back at camp a couple of nice rangers swung by checking permits. After some chatting and dinner it was bedtime around 10. Up at 5:30 with clear skies again. After breakfast hoofed it across the Inspiration toward Klawatti. Ascended the steep snow on the south face as the 'schrund looked like it would go. After a couple hundred vert feet up got a good angle on the bridge and it was a no go and the moat was 15 across. Bummer...

 

Well still having plenty of time and feeling good headed back under the scorching sun...melted water and hit Eldorado again under blue bird skies. Roomie had never been up before so glad he got to experience the aesthetic finish to a beautiful peak. Basked for a bit then headed out and into Marblemount for a giant buffalo cheese burger.

 

Bivy Site

 

Summit Whiteout

 

Day Two Morning Glory

 

Eldo form Klawatti

 

Killer Summit Steps

 

Aesthetic Second Time Up

 

Still one of the best views in the Cascades

 

Camp Boredom

 

All in all everything is status quo up there. Bivy sites on the rock under the east ridge are plenty comfy and shielded. Good crampon conditions in the AM. Not needed by 9 or so. Killer steps up the summit. Both glaciers are quite tame. Running H2O at the base of Roush.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

glacier gear, ice axe, crampons, pickets, iPod and SUNSCREEN

 

Approach Notes:

Snow starts above the boulder fields from hell just before crossing over to Roush. Solid boot pack.

[Le Piston]

When I was up doing Dorado Needle a few weeks ago Klawatti wasn't looking like that schrund would go much longer...a lot less snow than last year. If you haven't done Klawatti before, it is a fun climb with great views also. Sorry you didn't have time for it this time, but it's more fun when the snow is in shape.

[t_rutl]

nada...haven't been able to mount up on Klawatti yet but would love too...thinking a ski trip up there this coming winter/spring...last year was really late season and this year it was an afterthought...didnt have the time to take one of the longer ridge routes up plus no helmets...rock fall was evident and would rather not have my skull split!