[TR] Little Tahoma - Fryingpan-Whitman glaciers 7/1/2009

[Hayley Sierra]

Trip: Little Tahoma - Fryingpan-Whitman glaciers

 

Date: 7/1/2009

 

Trip Report:

Deciding that I still had some energy left after my Buckner trip, Nick and I went for Little Tahoma last week (Tues-Wed). We approached via the Fryingpan Creek trail, arriving in Summerland in 1.5 hours to get our first views of Little Tahoma up close.

 

 

We ascended easy snow slopes to Meany Crest, and continued another 100 ft up and right to the edge of the Fryingpan Glacier, where we made camp. A small bivy/tent site was found among the rocks, although it was the only one we could locate. There was running water nearby. The approach took 5 hours total.

 

Meany Crest from Summerland--we ascended the snow slopes to the rocks on the upper right of this photo.

 

A 3 am start got us to the edge of the Whtiman Glacier by 5 am and sunrise.

 

The traverse across both the Fryingpan and Whitman involved just a few, very large crevasses, so we opted to rope up for the ascent.

 

At the top of the Whitman, we exited onto rocks. The scrambling was only moderate, and we found the rock to be better than expected (although that really isn't saying much given what we were expecting). Let's just say I'm glad there weren't other climbers on the route above us that day.

 

Scrambling the summit blocks.

 

We reached the summit (11,138 ft) at 8:30 am in full sun and with the temp rising fast. We saw numerous climbers making their way up the DC and Emmons.

 

During the descent back to camp we saw at least two large rocks come rolling down the snow alongside us, and made our way quickly out of danger. With the temps as warm as they were that day, I'm glad we didn't stay on the summit too long.

 

Still, the snow remained firm on the glacier, making for a quick descent. We packed up camp and were back to the car by 3 pm.

 

This was an excellent trip and I'm surprised it doesn't see more ascents (maybe 1 group/week according to the summit register). The approach and climb are very straightforward, and as long as you avoid the rocks on warm days I think you shouldn't have any problems.

 

Gear Notes:

8 mm x 30 m glacier rope

We brought slings for a possible rappel, although we just ended up easily downclimbing the scramble route.

Crampons, ice axe, crevasse rescue gear.

 

Approach Notes:

The trail to Summerland is in excellent condition and snow free.

 

There seemed to be many campsites on top of Meany Crest, so stay left at the top of the snowfields and find a spot up there.