[TR] Alpine Lakes - Stuart Conditions: W Ridge /N Ridge / Cascadian 7/28/2008

[timmatsui]

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Stuart Conditions: W Ridge /N Ridge / Cascadian

 

Date: 7/28/2008

 

Trip Report:

Hoping the rain would lift (it did) I went up the W. Ridge of Stuart today and after seeing folks lugging extra weight up the Cascadian, and because I had my own unanswered question, here are some notes on current conditions:

• there is snow just south of the summit, a large patch of it so you can melt it for water if you're bivying. you can scramble around it so you don't need an axe; stay on the ridge crest and be prepared for a few bouldery moves

• there is snow below the false summit. currently you can down-climb ball bearing covered slabs and face only 60' or so of snow. if i had an axe i would glissade the snow--I hate ball bearings--but you don't need an axe.

• there is still some snow between long-john tower and the west ridge notch, but you can get around it; no axe or crampons needed.

• according to a party that just did it, you can descend the gully from the west ridge notch south toward ingall's creek. you will need a rope for short rappels. apparently it is interminable. i feel sorry for those guys.

• looking from above, the stuart glacier looks like it's still snow covered (ie. not bare ice which sucks balls to chop steps in if you chose to go light/sans crampons)

• looking from above, the NE slabs over the Ice Cliff glacier are more-or-less non-threatening with regard to avalanches. Couldn't say on the glacier itself, but one objective hazard to the Girth Pillar is minimized.

 

Have fun.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

ski poles are nice on the knees.

[olymand]

It sounds like you just scrambled the West Ridge. Is that right?

[timmatsui]

yes, though there is some technical climbing on the ridge and substantial exposure in places. see previous posts about technical level, etc. many people do this in two days, many are benighted (as the bivy corrals indicate), some choose to rope up, some solo as i did this time. i hope my post helps others know the conditions and choose gear appropriately; axe/no axe, crampons, and/or the possibility to melt snow for water if staying the night. best,t