Jump to content

[TR] Broken Top, S. Sister - Green Lakes- NW Ridge 6/26/2008


802

Recommended Posts

Trip: Broken Top, S. Sister - Green Lakes- NW Ridge

 

Date: 6/26/2008

 

Trip Report:

I was planning an gentle solo on my way to try the Jefferson Park Glacier but my jefferson folks bailed, so this turned into the main course. Started at the Green Lakes TH around 9pm (still can't park there, but you can park right across the street, saw a couple pickups trying to get through the snowbank, so it should be open today, tomorrow, soon). About two hours pleasant night hiking in along the stream to Green Lakes. Camped there, woke around 7 and started up the steep west facing snow slope. Where the snow petered out, traversed left to the NW ridge and climbed the last few hundred feet on awful rock. Glad not to have anyone above or below me on that. The last 50 feet, where you skirt to the north side of the summit block and climb loose rock was actually still a steep chute of crusty snow. Easy enough w/ crampons and one tool. Lots of exposure below though. Outside of that gulley, the rock itself was completely dry and ice free, the last few moves to the summit are very easy, i ended up feeling silly for leaving my pack below. 80 and windless on the summit. Backed out the snow/ ice gulley and then descended directly down the scree and snow slope of the west face. All in all a very fun climb.

 

Sorry no pics, both my camera and altimiter were not working - Broken top triangle or something.

 

I got the message at the top that my JPG buddies had to work instead, so i went across the valley and picked a line on the E face of S. Sister. Nice snow climbing to the ridge, the S ridge though is rapidly becoming a boring, long, dusty slog. I was planning to come back to S. Sister w/ some friends later in the season, but i'm not sure i'd want to climb that ridge again - felt more sand dune than alpine. Maybe take a look at M. or N. Sis instead. S. ridge down to Moraine lake, then cross country to Green Lakes Trailhead.

 

Happy Climbing

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

a picket and a belay might have been nice on the final crusty snow chute due to the long fall potential, but i gather that will just be more crumbly rock w/ a few more 80-degree days

 

Approach Notes:

lots of places to cross stream on snow bridges, lots of great campsites, all snow. Good swimming in creek on way out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 0
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...