[TR] Mt. Index, Main Peak - East Route 6/22/2008

[Noodle]

Trip: Mt. Index, Main Peak - East Route

 

Date: 6/22/2008

 

Trip Report:

Left the trailhead at 9:40 which turned out to be a few hours too late for this route. Mike had made three attempts of this route and had some unfriendly things to say about the lower east ridge so we chose to drop over the pass south of Lake Serene, lose a several hundred feet, and traverse until we could find a way up through the cliffs. We eventually found a way up a stream gulley that was luckily still filled with enough snow to support us. Not sure what you'd do once that melts out. Schwacking around the stream would probably be tolerable in dry conditions.

 

We spied the hourglass, but at around 4000' it became clear that we would run out of time. So we decided to make a loop of it and descend the east ridge.

 

The east ridge sucks you in. The upper part is covered in snow and easily travelled. The lower east ridge is a devil-whore from hell. Well, okay; it's not *that* bad, but I definitely would not want to go up it. I had my crampons on to get some traction on the slick, steep brush-fest, but eventually we had to start rappelling. Bring a 60 meter rope (or two) and you'll get out of there faster than we did with our 35. Luckily there are lots of trees to rappel from. We found some potential epic evidence - two almost-new poles, one busted pole, and a picket.

 

Raced back to the car hoping to catch Zeke's burger joint but didn't quite make it.

 

Pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/adamlandefeld/MtIndexEastRoute

 

 

Gear Notes:

Crampons (used for the brush-fest), two pickets (not used), ax, 35 meter 8 mm rope (bring at least a 60).

 

Approach Notes:

Snow starts just below Lake Serene. Go around the lake on the west side, drop over the pass, and start looking for a way through the cliffs.

[ClimbingAbe]

We were up on the East Ridge on saturday. And, yes, it was an epic. Going up wasn't great, but also wasn't bad. We tried to skirt the ridge on the decent like you did on your ascent, but weren't able to find a way through. That forced us back on the ridge and into the thick of the worst of it. All that gear is stuff that was pulled from packs by the bushes. Did you happen to pick it up?

 

By the way we did make the summit, and the views were great. Climbing in the gully was also decent. Good snow and few moats. Nothing too serious as long as you stay away from the rocks.

[dian05]

Hey there...would you be able to return those poles ...please? They should be red Black Diamond poles...a tree grabbed them from me!

Dian

541-980-3543

[erratica]

I was part of the party that climbed the day before and lost all that gear (where are you located so one of us can pick it up?). After spending about 4 hours on that ridge on the way up and 6 on the way down, you answered the biggest question of the day: was there another way to go? Since you went up through the valley to the east and down on the ridge, you can answer- which way was better? Would the east valley be passable without snow?

[Noodle]

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