1st wk june st helens climb, east coasters

[mak]

we're planning to end our trip to the PNW with a st-helens climb after we get done with our Rainier plans. Tentatively, 7th or 8th of june is when we'd be heading there. We have all necessary winter mountaineering gear and from what I've read, access to climbers bivy is hard with the non-snow ploughing.

 

a) Has anyone done the hike/snowshoe/skin upto climbers bivy lately? Is the route relatively easy (i.e. follow the road) or is some more serious navigation equipment required?

b)where's the best place to park if we're going to be hiking up rt 83 since its snowed in at the moment (and for a while from what I assume)

c)Via the standard route, is roped travel required/advised when there's this amount of snow (or are crampons/ice axe sufficient), again, pictures and reading are all we have access to out here for info.

d)Avy problems on st-helens that I should know about? (conditions change but general advice)

e)Wildlife (aka bears) we have to worry about?

 

Thanks in advance for your anticipated replies

 

mak

[Adam13]

I would say by the first week of June there shouldn't be too much avalanche risk on St. Helens, but with the amount of snow there has been this winter you never know. Also climbing roped would not be required just depends on your preferance for extra safety/ ease of travel.Others may have had different experiences but I don't know of too many bear problems around the mountain. Enjoy your climb.

[Greg R]

I recommend starting at Marble Mtn snow park. You have probably checked out my TR. You will need snow shoes or skis and ave gear. No ropes. Consider hiking in to 3500 to 4000' to camp. The camping there was quite pleasant. You'll be on snow. Check out a Green Trails map and follow the "winter route" which is marked on the map.