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TrogdortheBurninator

[TR] The Snout - Smelling Salts 8/25/2007

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Trip: The Snout - Smelling Salts

 

Date: 8/25/2007

 

Trip Report:

snout.jpg

 

Eric8 and I spent the weekend failing as weathermen up at washington pass. Weather looked threatening saturday morning so we bailed on silverstar and headed up to the snout (weather turned out great). 3 weeks prior, Blake and I climbed a new route in the obvious dihedral, but we were originally aiming for an obvious splitter visible from below. We didn't have the gear for the splitter, so we ended up TRing it on the descent. It was good and I was looking for an excuse to go back. To make things more appealing we noticed a beautiful finger crack below the splitter. Blake climbed another route in the area a week later, then went back and TR'd the finger crack with rave reviews. Anyhow, the route is well protected and very high quality, albeit a bit too short. Combined with other routes in the basin, it makes a great sketchy weather objective.

 

P1 (5.10) starts above an obvious fir tree below and right of the finger crack roof. Move up and left on moderate terrain to a good stance at the roof. Pull the roof into a series of thin finger locks (5.10) until gaining another good stance. A second thin crux follows. Trend up and slightly right to a nice lounger tree belay.

 

CIMG3977.JPG

 

CIMG3981.JPG

 

P2 (5.9) takes the obvious wide splitter on the right side of the big dihedral. The pitch is quite steep, but has perfectly spaced chockstones and faceholds to keep the grade moderate. Crack widens quickly from hands to #4 camalots, before dropping in angle and widening to #5 for the last 15 ft. Belay at nice treed ledge.

 

CIMG3986.JPG

 

P3 (5.8) Start 15 ft right of P2 belay and follow obvious lieback crack. Climbing starts out excellent for a while, but turns to 4th class for the end. Trees can be avoided with contrived, but enjoyable face climbing. Belay at tree with slings.

 

CIMG3989.JPG

 

From atop P3 you can scramble or belay to summit in ~2 pitches mostly class 3-4.

 

You can definitely fill a day in the basin as there are now 3 routes (known) on the snout, as well as some other new routes Blake has put up. Quality wise P1 and P2 are on par with many of the best pitches at WA Pass. If you finish your day early and just want to relax, there is excellent bouldering below the snout.

 

CIMG3996.JPG

 

CIMG3998.JPG

 

here is another pic blake took of the finger crack from above.

 

split.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Double camalots to #4 plus on #5 (C4size). Optional 2nd #5. One rope should be fine for rappel, but you will need to install a new station.

 

Approach Notes:

Cutthroat Lake Trailhead. Follow spur rd left before crossing cutthroat creek. After maybe .5 miles, turn left and head into the forest. Areas with tall trees provide generally very easy travel. Head up hill until reaching a bench below a large cliff/waterfall. Avoid the waterfall/cliff by traversing slope on left. Snout is obvious formation in middle of basin above waterfall.

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Here's a shot of Jason and Eric from across the valley.

 

snout_route.JPG

 

The obvious crack above them is quite conservatively graded at 5.9

 

The finger crack (p1) can also be reached by climbing in from the left on an arching undercling.

 

A great route guys! This wont take anyone all day, but there are some other good climbs nearby to do before or after.

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