Mt Jefferson this weekend

[DavidHiers]

I've got my eye on Mt. Jefferson this weekend; has anyone been up there recently?

 

 

[jport]

Mt. Jefferson has lots of routes... Which route are you considering? I climbed Jeff Park Glacier the first weekend of July. At that point almost the entire bergschrund was open (we barely snuck by below Smith Rock). I highly doubt there's a way around now... unless you wanna pull some overhanging glacial ice ;-)

[DavidHiers]

First trip, so I'm planning on the South Ridge.

 

I want to camp as high above Shale Lake as possible, hoping to find water/ice around Goat Rock.

 

Biggest unknown is the amount of snow/ice left under the west side of the pinnacle. I should be able to scope it out from the car so I can pack the right pro.

 

 

[onsight]

Don't count on any water or ice at goat rock.

Get up there early.

Take pickets and crampons for the snow traverse. (might not need the pickets)

solo the top. Or not.

 

 

[wannabe]

Snow patches start at about 7,000. Climbers trail reasonably marked from the start between Shale and Mud lakes. Keep an eye on the Warm Springs fire. It looked like it was picking up and we decided to abort our summit attempt today rather than get smoked (or burned) out.

 

From the S ridge looking SE:

 

Above Shale lake:

 

[Robert Howell]

unless you wanna pull some overhanging glacial ice ;-)

 

My buddy and I climbed jeff park this weekend and this is exactly what we had to deal with. No way around either 'schrund'. We had to do some front-pointing but protection was surprisingly solid.

Edited August 6, 2007 by Robert Howell

[DavidHiers]

Thanks, everyone

 

The trip was a bust. Start late, twist an ankle in milk creek, return to car, cry into protein juice, etc....

 

Next time!