[TR] Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier 6/21/2007

[ckouba]

Trip: Mt Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier

 

Date: 6/21/2007

 

Trip Report:

Good times were had. The route was in interesting shape with good ramps on the left side leading to a very spicy yawner across the entire glacier. Climbed into, across and up the high side which was heady for me but thoroughly enjoyable once it was behind me. Upper portion was very soft and the cornice is long gone.

 

Sherpa descent was straightforward but the lower part slab-alanched about 15 min after we got back to the Ice Cliff Moraine.

 

The Ice Cliff itself was actively calving during the night and quite a bit during the day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Three shorty screws, one fluke, two pickets and a small rock rack. Simul'd the whole route using the screws, the pickets and some of the rack.

 

Approach Notes:

BUGGY to beat the band all the way to the moraine.