Rafael_H Posted December 18, 2001 Posted December 18, 2001 Was cleaning my gear from the recent (first) trip to Banff and decided to share my findings. Crampons. I used BD Bionic, Sabertooth and previously Grivel Rambo. I was amazed when, at my friend's advice, I tried Sabertooths on ice up to WI4, they worked better than monopoint Bionics! Later after switching to monos I really missed the Sabertooths. I feel that in most conditions where ice is not smooth up to WI5+ I prefer the Sabertooth (I think it's not just the dual points that do the magic butu the overall design of the front part). Although I think that for climbing rock a monopoint is better for me I saw a guy climb M6+ in his Sabertooths and do all the drop-knees and back steps and what not very smoothly. I found that matching feet is easier with monos. Ice tools.I used BD Cobras and Rages. While very close Cobras do perform better, just easier to get a good stick. I'd use Rages in high abuse situations. Leashes.BD Android sucks for me, no justification for any moderate use: ice (WI5), rock(M6+), snow. For mixed routes it is easier to just drop the tool to protect and then re-grab it. One can also strap the leashes to the tool close to the hand with velcro - easier to grab but would be harder to place screws. Advanced climbers have a better chance with Adroids for mixed climbing because it takes more skill, experience and strength to hang the tool on yourself or the other one, unclip the Android and clip back to it without dropping it. Screws.BD Express rules! I find that CM Laser bites and screws in better but the absence of a crank handle is a significant disadvantage. Ice clippers.4 racking carabiners is the better or screws fall out. BD Ice Clipper is great. Mountain Magic in Banff is out of rubber ID's, bring from home. Gloves.BD Ice Glove once again proved crappy: not dexterous enough to lead or rappel (setting and breaking the stations). They also froze up and became very stiff. Still very cold. I use Seirus slalom gloves ($70 at REI) and so far it is the most dexterous warm glove I've seen. Check out the newest Lowe Alpine ice climbing glove. My very exeperienced friend uses only thin gloves, but then he got screamin' barfies all the time, i had none. Of course gear matters less for more experienced but cold and very early starts are a challenge enough for my bones... And, finally, there I was, climbing M14 with a sandwich between my teeth when... Oh, oops, wrong place Quote
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