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Posted

Sorry i did not to post this for the sunday climbers but here are the conditions for saturday

 

surface cooling and medium 15-25mph, winds produced a

good breakable crust with boot pen to 6-8". Coming

down from the summit there is a good bootpack to

palmer. Most climbers using left chute. right chute

of pearly gates in great condition. Decended using

west crater rim to hogsback. Great conditions on

decent, good boot pack on accent. Under surface crust

is about 18" of sugar with little consolidation.

Recent warming producing wet slides on Thursday and

Friday.

 

Just to recap, the right chute of the Pearly gates does not have a 70 degree ramp as reported, its a small WI2 series of 3 steps about 4 ft each. No biggie if you can climb alpine ice.

 

 

 

 

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Posted

Quick note, been seeing some climbers placing vertical pickets below the Pearly gates on Saturday. These pickets were placed in snow consisting of a ice crust and sugar snow. Hmmmmm......try using T slots with a vertical backup if you want the anchor to do its job and hold a fall.

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